All About Winches*This information was compiled from
information submitted by individuals and manufacturers of the
mentioned products. The Off-Road.com WEB PAGE™ does not
guarantee the accuracy of this information, and is not responsible
for the information contained herein. However, if a reader would
like to submit an update or correction to the information provided
here, we would be glad to include that as well.
Originally prepared by Steve Williams in June 1993 (not associated
with The Off-Road.com WEB PAGE in any way), and has been updated by
The Off-Road.com WEB PAGE February 1996 with additional information
provided on Hydraulic Winches.
Of all the different properties of a given winch, the line pull
rating is the most important. It is the maximum static load the
winch can exert on the cable. This will be achieved on the first
wrap of the cable on the drum. For every successive wrap of cable
on the drum the winch's torque decreases 12%. This must be taken
into account when selecting a winch for your 4X4. The line pull,
line speed, and current draw (applicable only to an Electric Winch;
a Hydraulic winch does not have this problem) indicates when a
weight of X lbs is pulled, it will be pulled at Y ft/min using Z
amps. These numbers vary widely from winch to winch. They should be
an important consideration in a winch purchase. It is best to ask
an experienced winch owner to determine what is best for you.
Questions to the offroad mailing list about this are welcome.
Weight is an indicator of the constuction of the winch. Winches
must be very STRONG. Too little weight means too little metal used
in the construction. Too much weight could mean that your front end
will sag. A benefit of the Hydraulic winch is that it does weigh
less. The following are comparison charts for 8,000+ lbs electric
winches made by the two most popular manufacturers: Ramsey and
Warn. These statistics were compiled from the respective company's
1992 catalog. Prices are not shown because list prices can change
without notice. Deep discounts are available from mail order houses
or discount stores. As a reference, prices for the winches below
range from $400 to $1000. Following the Electric Winch information,
more details of the Hydraulic Winches availble from MileMarker are
provided, and then some common questions are addressed regarding
selecting and operation winches.
|-------------------------------------|-------------------------------------|
| Ramsey | Warn |
|-------------------------------------|-------------------------------------|
| | |
|Model: Ramsey REP8000 | Model: Warn M8000 |
|Gear reduction ratio: 210:1 | Gear reduction ratio: 216:1 |
|Motor: 1.8 hp, permanent magnet | Motor: 2.1 hp, series wound |
|Gear train: 3 stage planetary | Gear train: 3 stage planetary |
|Weight: 70 lb. | Weight: 74 lb. |
| | |
|Line Pull Line Speed Current | Line Pull Line Speed Current |
| (lb) (ft/min) (amps) | (lb) (ft/min) (amps) |
|================================ | ================================|
| 0 13 20 | 0 29 70 |
| 2000 11 90 | 2000 15 180 |
| 4000 9 150 | 4000 10 263 |
| 6000 6 215 | 6000 7 342 |
| 8000 4.5 280 | 8000 3 423 |
| | |
|-------------------------------------|-------------------------------------|
| | |
|Model: Ramsey RE8000 | Model: Warn M8274 |
|Gear reduction ratio: 360:1 | Gear reduction ratio: 134:1 |
|Motor: 1.9 hp, series wound | Motor: 2.5 hp, series wound |
|Gear train: worm gear | Gear train: spur gear |
|Weight: 115 lb. | Weight: 110 lb. |
| | |
|Line Pull Line Speed Current | Line Pull Line Speed Current |
| (lb) (ft/min) (amps) | (lb) (ft/min) (amps) |
|================================ | ================================|
| 0 15 73 | 0 52 68 |
| 2000 7.5 155 | 2000 19 172 |
| 4000 5.5 215 | 4000 12 268 |
| 6000 4 285 | 6000 8 360 |
| 8000 3 345 | 8000 3 435 |
| | |
|-------------------------------------|-------------------------------------|
| | |
|Model: Ramsey Pro 9000 | Model: Warn XD9000 |
|Gear reduction ratio: 138:1 | Gear reduction ratio: 261:1 |
|Motor: 1.9 hp, series wound | Motor: 2.1 hp, series wound |
|Gear train: 3 stage planetary | Gear train: 3 stage planetary |
|Weight: 85 lb. | Weight: 78 lb. |
| | |
|Line Pull Line Speed Current | Line Pull Line Speed Current |
| (lb) (ft/min) (amps) | (lb) (ft/min) (amps) |
|================================ | ================================|
| 0 23 70 | 0 18 70 |
| 2000 12 165 | 2000 14 165 |
| 4000 8 240 | 4000 10 230 |
| 6000 5 305 | 6000 8 290 |
| | 8000 6 360 |
| 9000 2 400 | 9000 5 400 |
| | |
|-------------------------------------|-------------------------------------|
| | |
|Model: Ramsey RE10000 | Model: Warn M10000 |
|Gear reduction ratio: 470:1 | Gear reduction ratio: 164:1 |
|Motor: 1.9 hp, series wound | Motor: 2.5 hp, series wound |
|Gear train: worm gear | Gear train: 3 stage planetary |
|Weight: 130 lb. | Weight: 125 lb. |
| | |
|Line Pull Line Speed Current | Line Pull Line Speed Current |
| (lb) (ft/min) (amps) | (lb) (ft/min) (amps) |
|================================ | ================================|
| 0 14 70 | 0 35 80 |
| 2000 7 110 | 2000 14 163 |
| 4000 5 180 | 4000 9 245 |
| 6000 4 230 | 6000 6 322 |
| 8000 3.5 280 | 8000 4 400 |
|10000 2.5 330 | 10000 3 475 |
| | |
|-------------------------------------|-------------------------------------|
| | |
|Model: Ramsey RE12000 | Model: Warn M12000 |
|Gear reduction ratio: 470:1 | Gear reduction ratio: 261:1 |
|Motor: 1.9 hp, series wound | Motor: 2.5 hp, series wound |
|Gear train: worm gear | Gear train: 3 stage planetary |
|Weight: 135 lb. | Weight: 136 lb. |
| | |
|Line Pull Line Speed Current | Line Pull Line Speed Current |
| (lb) (ft/min) (amps) | (lb) (ft/min) (amps) |
|================================ | ================================|
| 0 14 70 | 0 25 80 |
| 2000 7 110 | 2000 14 141 |
| 4000 5 180 | 4000 8 200 |
| 6000 4 230 | 6000 7 252 |
| 8000 3.5 280 | 8000 5 302 |
|10000 2.5 330 | 10000 4 353 |
|12000 2 390 | 12000 3 400 |
| | |
|-------------------------------------|-------------------------------------|
--------HYDRAULIC MOTOR---------------|----------ELECTRIC WINCHES---------
Quiet Motor runs at 85 rpm Louder, runs at 1750 rpm
Draws 2 amps under full load Draws up to 475 amps
Uses existing power steering pump Requires 2 heavy duty batteries
Runs cool continuously Overheats fast and kicks out
Light-weight, only 65 pounds Heavier, approx. 160-175 pounds
Custom Hose fitting for each application,
replaces stock hose (4500 lb minimum burst
strength) with AeroQuip Steel Braided
Hose (minimum 12,500 lb burst strength)
Heavy duty fail safe hydraulic valve,
spring loaded to return to power steering
mode and designed for continuous use.
Power steering will work while operating winch.
Winch is completely sealed for underwater use.
Hydraulic Motor with 3000 hour life expectancy.
12 ft. remote control.
Reversible mounting.
-----------------------GENERAL QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS---------------------
Q. How do I select a winch for my truck?
A. The most important thing to consider when selecting a winch is whether it
is capable of pulling 1.5 times the gross vehicle weight (GVW) of your vehicle
(don't forget to take into account that 12% drop in pulling power for every
extra wrap of cable on the drum - a 9000lb winch has a line pull of approx.
7000lbs on the third wrap). GVW is the real world weight of your vehicle, i.e.
fully loaded. So fill up your gas tank, load up all those off-road goodies,
tools, hi-lift jacks, people and go get your vehicle weighed.
Q. What do the different winch gear systems mean and what difference
will they make when I'm operating them?
A. There are three common gearing systems, worm gear, spur gear and planetary
gear. They all do the same job, gear down the high speed motor to a low speed
high torque winch drum. The gear reduction ratio is by how much the motor's
output revolutions are reduced for the spindle. The greater the reduction, the
more revolutions the motor has to turn for one spindle revolution and the less
the motor has to work for that revolution. The difference in the gearing
systems is mainly in their transfer efficiency.
The worm gear has a transfer effiency of 35-40%. This causes the winch to be
self-braking even under heavy loads, but this means the unit will need a clutch
mechanism for free spooling. Worm gears offer the most reduction, very high
reliability, built-in braking mechnism, and generally a slower winching speed.
The spur and planetary gear systems have efficiencies of 75% and 65%
respectively. This means they have a tendency to free spool when loaded,
therefore a braking mechanism is needed. Planatary gears are the most common
and provide both strength and smooth operation with good resistance to torque
loads. Only the WARN M8274 has a spur gear due to its different design
characteristics.
Q. I've noticed while looking through the manufacturer's catalogs that there
are different types of electric motors. What is the difference between series
wound motors and permanent magnet motors? Is one better than the other?
A. An electric motor basically has two major parts, the stator and the rotor
(or armature). It is the job of the stator to produce a magnetic field which
will cause the rotor to rotate when an electric current flows through it.
In a permanent magnet motor, the stator uses permanent magnets. This means the
current drain on the battery is lower than series wound motors (which uses
field coils in the stator). Permanent magnet motors are good for light and
medium duty winches, but winching time and load has to be carefully monitored
as they tend to overheat. Series wound motors are used in heavier duty
winches, but tend to cost more.
Q. Will my electrical system cope with the extra load of an electrical winch?
A. I doubt it, unless you've already hooked up a portable welder. Running a
winch is the equivalent of moving your truck on the starter motor!
Installation of a winch requires the beefing up of the electrical system. You
will require a heavy duty (high output) alternator, capable of at least 100
amps (remember to consider alternator output at idle too, these figures can
differ wildly, especially on older models). Fit a high capacity battery, or
consider a dual battery setup with some sort of electronic battery management
system. If you have other high power devices, sound system, lights etc, you
may want to consider a separate high power wiring loom. Also in case of an
emergency install an easily accessible emergency power cut off switch and
resetable circuit breakers (the winch cables carry enough current to weld 0.25"
steel plate).
After you have got power to the winch you will need to get it back to the
battery. Ensure your grounding system is capable and all connections are
clean, this is where most systems waste power. The best grounding systems will
use large diameter cables (such as welding cables), the battery negative post
connects to the engine block, the alternator ground connects to the engine
(usually through its case) and then the frame is connected to the engine using
a grounding strap.
Remember, compared to your vehicle's other electrical components, winches draw
huge amounts of current and can completely drain your battery or overload
your alternator in a matter of minutes.
Q. I want to be able to winch from either the front or the back of my truck,
are the receiver mounted winches any good?
A. Receiver mounted winches are very useful, but remember their static pull
load is limited by the receiver they fit into. For a class III hitch that is
5000lbs. This is really only suitable for downsize trucks and jeeps.
Q. When I buy my winch, what comes with it, and what else do I need to start
using it?
A. Most winches come with nothing, but some places do a deal which includes
the remote cable control and fairlead hawser. You will also need the mounting
kit for your vehicle. I strongly recommend you buy the winch manufacturers
kit. It has been designed for that winch and vehicle with all safety aspects
considered. Home made winch mounts are disasters looking for a place to
happen.
Your winch will now work, but it is limited to straight line pulls between two
vehicles. The addition of the following items will greatly increase your
winch's usefulness - Tree saver straps (never wrap a cable directly round a
tree, you will kill the tree and kink your cable), a couple of clevis pins,
snatch blocks, a choke chain and of course thick leather gloves.
Attach tow hooks to the frame on all four corners of your vehicle.
Q. What safety equipment will I need?
A. You just need your leather gloves and common sense. Never handle the cable
with bare hands, a frayed cable can cut skin to the bone. The most common
winch accident (according to WARN, so I believe it) is getting your fingers
caught in the cable as the last of it winds onto the drum. Always use the
remote control cable when winching, and keep every one out of range of the
cable .
Q. What other safety considerations are there?
A. Be aware that a broken winch cable can have enough force in its whiplash to
cut through a truck's roof and windshield. Imagine what would happen if the
cable met a person. A cable that hits a small tree will tear the tree down. A
cable that hits a large tree can wrap tightly around a tree so a person behind
the tree is not necessarily safe. Solid objects such as hooks and snatch
blocks will fly through anything, including a truck's hood, if a cable breaks.
People should stand well out of range of the cable and never in line with the
cable. Furthermore, if a cable breaks, the truck being winched may roll
downhill, so never stand downhill of any vehicle being winched.
Q. Is it common to break a winch cable? Should I carry a spare?
A. No to both questions. A properly maintained cable is very reliable (see
question about maintenance) and carrying a spare will only increase the risk of
damaging it. Winch cable is aircraft grade cable and has a breaking strain of
32,000lbs - much higher than the capacity of the winch.
It is much more common for for snatch blocks and anchor points to break because
they were poorly rigged up. It is a good idea to drape a heavy cloth jacket
over the cable to limit the whiplash if something snaps. If someone has to
steer the vehicle being winched, then raise the hood for extra protection.
Ensure all anchor points are firm.
Q. Is my winch maintenance free?
A. Although many people seem to think the answer to this one is yes, the
answer is really no! I have met a number of people in the mountains stuck,
with a winch that won't work. A little care and preventative maintenance would
have ensured its reliability.
Your winch should be maintained on a regular basis. Lubricate all required
points, inspect all mounts, pulleys, straps and clevis pins, check they are not
damaged, or showing signs of fatigue, and are free of moisture. Inspect your
remote control lead and electrical system for damage and chaffed insulation.
Make sure all terminals are corrosion free and tight. After each trip unspool
the cable. Check for kinks and frayed strands (damaged cables should be
replaced). Lubricate cable with a chain and cable lubricant (normal grease
will collect dirt) and wind back onto drum.
Q. What does using a snatch block achieve?
A. Basically it doubles your available pulling power (in fact it's an increase
of 85% after safety considerations). It will also allow you to perform pulls
at an angle to your truck. People are rarely considerate enough to get stuck
straight in front of you.
Q. When I double up the winch line using the snatch block, where should I
attach the return line.
A. If the snatch block is attached to another vehicle, which you are trying to
free, then the return line should be connected to a third vehicle or tree, to
spread the load.
If the snatch block is anchored to a tree and you are trying to free yourself,
then the return line should be hooked onto your vehicle's frame. DO NOT hook
it back on to the winch mount as this will effectively double the load on the
mounting plate.
Q. What is the best way of anchoring my vehicle when I'm trying to winch
another vehicle out of trouble?
A. Anchor your vehicle to another vehicle or any other fixed object using your
tow strap, tree saver, choker chain etc. The one thing to remember is attach
the anchor strap to your vehicle at the same end as your winch, otherwise you
will stretch your vehicle's frame.
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