(by Rick Colombo
COLOMBO@fndcd.fnal.gov & Dan Romanenko
romanenkod@gtephx.att.com June 1993 ) A suspension lift leaves the body to
frame mounting the same. The additional "clearance" arises from the
increase distance from the frame to the axles (i.e. when vehicle at
rest). The geometry for the drivetrain & steering will be
altered. A
body lift has spacers which are inserted between the frame and
body. There is no net increase in ground clearance (w/ the same
tires before/after body lift). The geometry of the drivetrain /
steering is not affected. A good rule to thumb is to not lift
more than you need for tire clearance.
Suspension lift:
- Increases the center of gravity
more than body lift (remember the engine/frame is lifted
too) - Suspension/handling performance
will change, for the better or worse depends on too many factors to
list. - Avoid blocks, they are
dangerous and increase spring wrap. - You may have problems
with:
- shocks (you usually need
longer ones)
- driveshaft(s) (may not be
long enough)
- transmission/transfer case
(may need shims)
- front-end alignment (may
need larger shims)
- may need *dropped* pitman
arm
Body lift:
- The kit is cheap, but there are
a few modifications which raise the cost:
- lowering the radiator
(especially if you have a shroud)
- lowering clutch linkage
(for manuals, don't know about automatics)
- gas filler
neck
- steering column may not
extend enough (the gear box is on the frame)
- brake lines (from the
master cylinder to the frame)
